We start off the morning with a great breakfast at Splashers: a Hawaiian version of the American breakfast with macadamia nuts sprinkled over pancakes and portuguese sausage (noting the large local Portuguese community). After breakfast, we stop by the Huhilee Palace, but unfortunately it has been closed for over a year due to structural damage from the 2006 Hawaii 6.7 earthquake. Looking towards the port, two large cruise ships are just offshore and we note a throng of crowds that just landed at the dock and were imminently descending upon the town like a black plague. So, as much as I love Kailua-Kona, that was our cue to make a beeline for the hills and head towards the two towering shield volcanoes that created the backbone of the Big Island: Mauna Kea & Mauna Loa.
Standing at 13,796 feet, Mauna Kea is Hawaii's highest point. Mauna Loa is slightly lower at 13,679 feet, but developed the entire foundation for the Big Island. Thus, when considering the height from the seafloor, Mauna Loa is often referred to as the highest volcano in the world. From almost any point on the Big Island, it's difficult not to notice the massive slopes from these two giants. The road out of Kailua-Kona ascends this gentle slope and after driving for what seems like forever, we reach the 6600 feet level and a remote and desolate spot in between the two volcanoes known as "the saddle". From there, a small road leads us towards Mauna Kea's visitor station at 9500 feet. For most visitors, the air is too thin and the road too harsh to go beyond here. Locke and I spend a few minutes to acclimatize, then slowly head up towards the peak. The gravel road is steep and very wet...our 4x4 Jeep hangs in there and we ascend all the way to the top where the observatories are. Usually, the observatories are above the weather, but this winter storm manages to penetrate all the way up here with its relentless mix of rain/sleet/ice pellet/snow. Once here, it feels like the top of the world...but since we're in the clouds and there's no view, I make a snowball and throw it towards Locke's direction. Not many folks can say that they played with snow in Hawaii!
It's a long descent from Mauna Kea towards Hilo...with temps in the 30s and snow at nearly 14,000 feet, we drop into a dry & barren region in Mauna Kea's rainshadow at 7000 feet. The descent then leads into lush tropical rain forests at 2000 feet and upon reaching sea level at Hilo, we are greeted with temps in the 80s along with a warm and very muggy sea breeze. After a quick refueling stop, we head north to the Hamakua Coast.
A nicely paved pathway is greeted with a rich variety of tropical plants & flowers. A brief rainshower ensues, and we're reminded that this is a tropical rain forest. Once we arrive at Akaka Falls, the sound is deafening...the source of the water is from Mauna Kea's flank and clouded with mud, the river cascades 442 feet...you can definitely feel the energy force from this waterfall!
Next stop on our itinerary are the World Botanical Gardens, as recommended by a collegue of Locke. Apparently, there are other botanical gardens in Hawaii and all possess the ton of tropical plants & flowers that thrive in this climate. Warning: along with all of this water comes mosquitos – a ton of them! Locke was still wearing his long pants, while I had changed to short sleeves and pants back in Hilo...guess who the mosquitoes were chasing after?!?! I did my best to capture the beauty of this botanical garden, but was in haste and not without many bumps on my legs for days to come. I don't think I will be living in Hilo anytime soon...
Recommended by Frommer's, this is an innovative and hip restaurant located in a strip mall next to WalMart of all places (We would have NEVER stopped by here, if not for the recommendation). We were first in line when it opened for dinner, and this place turned out to be our best dining spot for the entire trip. Great service, food and atmosphere...this was definitely a find! We then depart Hilo and make our way to the town of Volcano and crash out for the night.
Rainbow Sighting #2 - in Hilo!
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